The Everest Season Opener


(L to R) Nema Sherpa, Dorjee Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa, October 31, 2008 atop Ama Dablam. Six months later these three were also among the first to reach Everest’s summit.

Just passing along some recent good news. On May 5th Phurba Tashi, Dorje, and Nema, along with two sherpa from IMG and British climber David Tait, summited Mount Everest. Their efforts fixing the route to the 29,035 foot summit marks the first summits of the year and thus officially opens the route for the season on the mountain’s south side.

Their huge effort is deserving of congratulations, though historically last Tuesday’s summits have become something of the norm for them, as Phurba Tashi and his sherpa team have traditionally helped establish the route on the mountain’s north side. After last year’s decision by China to bar all north side expeditions expeditions via Tibet(due to fear of Tibet related protests during their hosting of the 2008 Summer Olympics) and with some continued uncertainty from Chinese authorities this year, they are now climbing out of Nepal, for Himalayan Experience, on Everest’s south side.

The news of Tuesday’s summits is reminiscent of October 31, 2008, when read more>>>

Rock & Ice – The Photo Issue (and Related Controversy)


I think the photo annual is my favorite issue of a magazine. So it was pretty cool when Christy thumbed through the latest Rock & Ice – The Photo Issue, and stumbled across a familiar image in the ‘Everyman’s Exposed’ section. After a quick doubletake, she tossed the magazine over to me and there was the shot, of Camp 2.7 and the mushroom ridge on Ama Dablam. I had totally forgotten submitting the photo back in November.


Based upon the order that our summit party descended and what everyone was wearing, I assumed the climber in the photo to be Rob Niles, though I must confess that from afar I could have been mistaken. One person who feels that might be the case is fellow climber/ teammate read more>>>

Ama Dablam Rewind – It’s in the Books


It’s official.

We don’t need the certificate as proof, but we do think it’s pretty cute that the government of Nepal takes the time to issue these.

I’m sure they’ll be cool to have somewhere down the road.

Maybe the Colorado Mountain Club should issue certificates for 14er & 13er summits.

I’m sure […]

Ama Dablam Rewind – The Lukla Flying Experience


Having just passed through a rather porous security check, we stood on the tarmac of Lukla Airport and awaited our flight. It was the first clear morning in three days, and the planes which were reported to have departed Kathmandu, were headed our way. Eager for their arrival, we listened. They were our way […]

Ama Dablam Rewind – The Camps: Pros & Cons


Dirk, Christy and I agreed- if we didn’t see a sleeping bag for a few weeks, we’d be just fine. I say that because when you consider the different camps on the mountain, and their varying levels of comfort (or lack thereof), well, it’s just great to be home. Having a toilet is nice, too.

Let’s […]

Ama Dablam Rewind – The Dablam Collapse


It was October 18th, nine days after arriving to Nepal, that we finished our trek and made it to basecamp. What a spot. The looming west face of the mountain frames the backdrop for the camp and the huge hanging snowfield just below the summit, known as the ‘dablam’ (loosely translated- pendant or charm […]