Asulkan Cabin

Christy Mahon at the Asulkan Cabin — The Asulkan Cabin is a sweet spot to spend a few nights.

If you’re looking for a backcountry hut skiing adventure in the Rogers Pass area, then you have to make a trip to the Asulkan Cabin.

Nestled at nearly 2000 meters at the head of Asulkan Valley, the Asulkan Cabin sits at a treeline in an enormous north-facing basin. It’s accessed from near the summit of Rogers Pass via the Illecillewaet trailhead on the road’s south side.

The ski touring options from the hut are hard to beat, with ski lines on nearly all aspects of the compass aside from the south, which makes this area a Canadian powder paradise during the snowy season.

You can ski laps on the upper slopes of Youngs Peak right out the back door or complete the classic Seven Steps to Paradise run further down the valley. You can ski tour up onto the Illecillewaet Glacier, with options to descend past the majestic Mount Sir Donald or head south towards the famous Glacier Circle cabin, both of which are part of the Bugaboos to Rogers Pass Traverse.

Christy Mahon Skinning up to the Young's Peak summit. — Skinning up to the Young’s Peak summit.

Christy Mahon skiing a powder lap on Young's Peak. — Powder lap on Young’s Peak.

To the west of the hut lies the Sapphire Col and the Jupiter Traverse, the famous Thorington ski descent, or any number of interesting ski tour loops that traverse around summits such as The Dome, The Rampart, Mount Afton, and Swanzy.

Really cool terrain around the cabin. — Cool terrain around the cabin.

Basically, a stay at the Asulkan Cabin can provide several days’ worth of unique tours.

As luck would have it, while planning our Rogers Pass ski touring trip, we happened to visit the Alpine Club of Canada’s website and saw that it had some available beds for three consecutive nights. We renewed our memberships with the ACC, booked three nights for two people, and we were all set.

Inside the Asulkan Cabin. It can accommodate 12 people, and despite the reservations appearing full each night we were there, it was often less than fully occupied. I suppose many people book and then no-show.

The hut sleeps twelve guests and is similar to one of the Braun Huts we’re accustomed to in the Aspen area. There’s propane for cooking and all the necessary cooking utensils for preparing meals. Several years ago, they replaced the wood-burning stove with a more efficient propane heater (probably due to the lack of trees in the vicinity and the challenges of stocking firewood), which kept the place quite warm and was very effective at drying out gear.

Relaxing at the cabin in the morning, we often had the hut (mostly) to ourselves. — Relaxing at the cabin in the morning, we often had the hut (mainly) to ourselves.

So after making the 4-mile skin into the hut with three days’ worth of food, we were all set. After unpacking and saying hello to some of the other groups we would be sharing the hut with that night, we headed out for a late-afternoon ski of Youngs Peak.

It was amazing and only reinforced how excited we were to spend the next few nights there.

The next morning, we set out on a tour that began by ascending the Triangle Moraine, past the Cleaver, to Sapphire Col. The small, spartan Sapphire Col Hut was a welcome reprieve from the wind and served as confirmation that we didn’t actually want to stay there.

Christy Mahon, Departing the hut with Asulkan Pass in the background. — Departing the cabin, with Asulkan Pass in the background.

Ted Mahon approaching Sapphire Col — Approaching Sapphire Col, to the right of the summit, out in the distance. The start of the Jupiter Traverse begins with an ascent of the right ridge of that summit.

Ted Mahon in the doorway of the very cozy Sapphire Col Hut. — In the doorway of the very cozy Sapphire Col Hut.

We opted against the alpine route of the Jupiter Traverse. Instead, we descended to the Lily Glacier, traversing around the peaks of the Jupiter Traverse to reach the top of the Thorington Route. We skied the fairly steep Thorington Route back to the hut with big smiles on our faces, having just completed a cool tour.

Ted Mahon skiing down from Sapphire Col to the Lily Glacier. — Skiing down from Sapphire Col to the Lily Glacier.

Approaching the start of the Thorington Route.

A view of the Asulkan Cabin from above — A view of the Asulkan Cabin from the vicinity of the Thorington Route.

Once back at the hut, it didn’t take long to feel antsy, and with the weather fairly nice, we opted to go up for another late-day ski of Young’s Peak. It was just as good as the day before.

Christy Mahon skiing Young's Peak. — Another powder lap on Young’s Peak.

The next day, we set out to the Sapphire Col again, following a slightly different route to the Cleaver, and then descended to the Lily Glacier, heading north over Lily Col. From there, we began ascending to the Dome Col, which steepened to an angle that required us to switch to crampons.

On the Asulkan Glacier — Ascending below the Cleaver.

Christy Mahon traversing across from Lily Col towards the Dome. — Traversing across from Lily Col towards the Dome. That’s Mount Swanzy in the background.

Christy Mahon booting up towards the Dome Col. — Booting up towards the Dome Col.

Ted Mahon Topping out on the Dome Col. — Topping out on the Dome Col.

The top of the col was a cool perch, and we transitioned to skiing, skied down along the top of the Cleaver, and then down to the Dome Glacier. Rather than head back to the hut directly, we followed our earlier skin track back up towards Sapphire Col and skied the northeast-facing Asulkan Glacier back down. It was a full day and a special tour.

Christy Mahon on the start of the descent from the Dome Col. — The start of the descent from the Dome Col.

And just like that, we had been at the Asulakn Cabin for three nights, and it was time to prepare to head home. The morning plan would be to ascend Young’s Peak for a third time, and descend the Illecillewaet Glacier, just as we had done at the finish of the Bugs to Rogers Traverse we completed back in 2011.

Skinning up to the summit of Young's Peak — Skinning up to the summit of Young’s Peak.

Mount Fox and the start of the Comstock Couloir behind it to the right.

It was amazing to be on that route again, and while the snow wasn’t great, transitioning to a breakable crust, it brought back tons of really great memories.

The start of the Forever Young Couloir — As we made our way from the summit of Young’s Peak towards the Illecillewaet Glacier, we passed by the entrance to the Forever Young Couloir, where Christy is standing.

Ted Mahon on the Illecillewaet Glacier — On the Illecillewaet Glacier, about to start descending to the trailhead.

Despite the poor snow conditions, we eventually reached the trailhead and celebrated a successful trip to the Asulkan Cabin. What a special place, and one that we recommend all backcountry skiers try to visit at some point.